Bau Longhouse and Lundu Waterfall Weekend

Another weekend another trip, the homework is starting to accumulate. Nevertheless, this weekend it was our university librarian who led us on a memorable experience to stay a night in a longhouse.

A convoy of two cars set off on Saturday afternoon to a small village near Bau (southwest of Kuching). When we arrived there we were introduced to a man known only as ‘Uncle’ who treated us to some interesting snacks and drinks. These included glutinous rice cooked and served in pitcher plants – amazing – and something you could only find in Borneo.

After the daily torrential downpour (which I have come to expect in Kuching), which lasted about an hour, we commenced our hour long trek from Uncle’s house, through the jungle, to the longhouse, where we were to spend the night. The walk was tough going, mainly because we had to carry all our own supplies up, which included a large (and heavy) icebox. However, after some hard work we made it to the village at the top of a hill just as light was fading.

The small village consists of a handful of wooden houses (only one of which is occupied by locals – the rest look well maintained though). We were the only tourists there. The locals came and cooked a feast for us that night which included rice, chicken mixed with some flowers cooked in bamboo, pork in durian paste soup and small chunks of BBQ pork face (yes… nose, ears cheeks etc). We ate on the floor in candle light. It was a good meal, but I found the pig nose a little hard to digest. Uncle entertained us for the rest of the night with his sayings and sugar cane wine (which he makes himself).

One of the many highlights of the night was the random bat which flew into the house and flew around for a while scaring the daylights out of some. It must have had some made sonar.
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The next day we headed off in search of a waterfall near the town of Lundu. I thought this would be nearby, but I was wrong. Without a bit of local knowledge from our librarian/guide, we would have never found this place. It is definitely off the map, and I doubt you could find it any guidebooks. We drove somewhere in the direction of Lundu, then went down a gravel road for about half an hour. This led us to the middle of nowhere, where there was a small Kampong with dogs and roosters running wild.

Here we met our local guide who was to take us to the waterfall. This is the first time we have actually needed a guide. The path to the waterfall is unmarked and towards the end does not exist at all. We were led into the jungle to a river (I swear at one point monkeys were throwing things at us from the trees… but I had no confirmed sighting of them). At the river the narrow path ended, and we travelled upstream, barefoot climbing rocks and jungle until we got to a huge waterfall. The entire walk took approximately an hour, but it was certainly worth it.

The water was freezing cold and the current was strong, which was perfectly refreshing after the walk. We spent a while swimming around at the base of the waterfall, with the more adventurous members of our group diving in from the rocks which surrounded. Another highlight was finding the “washing machine” – a natural spa, and the “waterslide”, slippery rocks which we were able to slide down uncontrollably.

All good fun, now back to that homework.