Pontianak

“Not the trip I expected it to be” is probably the best way of summing up my Pontianak experience. Pontianak is a bustling city which lies smack bang on the equator (marked by the equator monument) somewhere in West Kalimantan on the island of Borneo.

I never really intended on visiting Indonesia, but when the opportunity came up, I decided I may as well go. Not really looking forward to it, or expecting much, I was definitely impressed by the city.

I stayed at the house of a friend I was travelling with. This was an experience in itself. The householders spoke very minimal English (slightly more than my attempts at Indonesian though), so most communication was done non-verbally. The household consisted on Tante (indonesion for aunty), her two daughters and a daughter’s husband and son. The son was toddler who developed a liking for us and would always play with us, constantly talking to us in Indonesian, not seeming to mind that we didn’t understand a word he said.

In Pontianak I got my first massage. It wasn’t as good as I had thought, sometimes being quite painful, but not bad overall. I guy came to the house and it lasted about an hour in total. Once again half the fun was trying to talk to the guy who spoke very little English. Also on the beauty theme, I got my first shave from the barber using a straight razor. The best part of both was the price. The massage cost about $5AUD and the shave was about 25 cents – amazing.

Most things in Pontianak are amazingly cheap. The problem is keeping track of your money. Because the exchange rate with Indonesia is so bad I had trouble the entire time figuring out exactly how much the money I had was worth. Also, doing maths with hundreds of thousands of rupiah, while mentally trying to convert everything into Australian Dollars and Malaysian Ringitt (which I have become so used to) is confusing to say the least.

Probably the thing that I spent most money on was food. I was able to try frog for the first time. Apparently there is only one vendor in the city, and our trusty friends were able to take us there. I had deep-fried sweet and sour frogs with rice and a soup which tasted pretty good. Funnily enough, it tasted like chicken (although it was annoying to eat because the bone to meat ratio is so high). I also had a version of one of my favourite Malaysian dishes, Kolo Mee, with the pieces of pork replaced with crab meat. I have to say that the Pontianak version was better. Durian flavoured ice cream was also a winner.

It was refreshing to see the Pontianak city after spending so much time in Malaysia. It’s not really a tourist town with very few tourist attractions. There is the equator monument and a mall (which we spent a surprising large amount of time in) – but that’s about it. People in Indonesia seem active, and will do things even if there is no air-conditioning (unlike Malaysia). The driving is mad. The craziest I have ever seen. The roads are clogged with scooters, driving past in random directions at various speeds. Road rules are non-existent, as are lane markings. But somehow it all seems to work. It all adds up to make Pontianak a really interesting place.

Getting to and from Pontianak was half the fun. We caught a bus from Kuching to Pontianak. The bus ride takes ten hours in total. Crossing the border was a challenge. We were able to buy a visa for 10USD (I found it really strange we had to pay in USD) but when trying to pass through immigration it seemed that the guy had never seen a foreign passport before and didn’t know what to do with it. After much stuffing around he finally figured it out… but just as he was processing my visa the power went out. Apparently this is a usual occurrence. After waiting a total of about 45mins the power was back on and we made it through. The people on the bus didn’t look too happy that we held them up- probably not the best way to make new friends. But friends we did make somehow. The lady sitting next to us invited us to her place for “roast chicken and cheese” but unfortunately we had to decline.

The border crossing on the way back was also tough to get through. We were at the border before 5am (waiting for it to open)… but unfortunately it seems the rest of Indonesia had the same idea. So after about 2hrs of waiting in line we made it back to Malaysia.